https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bottles_of_essential_oils_and_perfume.jpg, Christopher J. Fynn, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Deborah Tosline published the book “Skin Remodeling DIY: An Introduction to the Underground World of Do-It-Yourself Skincare” in 2015. Her approach to skin care is based on a scientific background, love of research and over 40 years of DIY skincare experience.

Over the past two years, I’ve used essential oils (EOs) as the active ingredients in my DIY skin creams, lotions, and body butters. While this is not a new practice for me—I’ve studied, collected, and cherished EOs for over three decades—I had previously incorporated peptides into my skincare routine. However, when I ran out of peptides, I turned to the EOs I had on hand. The results were so satisfying that instead of repurchasing peptides, I invested in more EOs. I have not been disappointed. Anecdotally, I’ve found my EO-based creams to be just as effective as my peptide-infused ones. I enjoy variety in my skincare, and it’s reassuring to know that, for me, EOs provide similar skin-stimulating benefits.

Over the years, I’ve educated myself extensively on EOs and integrated them into every aspect of my life. My nervous system tends to operate on high alert, but one whiff of a calming EO provides me with immediate and lasting comfort. The receptors in our nose, which come in different sizes, are directly connected to the brain. EOs contain organic molecules that transition from a liquid to a gas phase when exposed to oxygen. Different EOs have varying molecular structures, that interact with different receptors in the nose, triggering various physiological responses. The scents that you smell are the EO’s organic molecules as they volatilize and disperse into the air.

I try to keep lavender EO nearby, as its soothing aroma brings me instant serenity.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Eucalypt_oils_2.jpg, Mx. Granger, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Research on the effects of EOs on health and well-being continues to grow. Meta-analyses, which evaluate existing studies to identify patterns and correlations, have highlighted the many ways EOs support mental health through the olfactory system and their unique chemical properties. One such study can be found here.

The Power of Essential Oils in Skincare

Essential oils are aromatic, concentrated extracts derived from the flowers, fruits, bark, resins, leaves, and roots of plants and trees. They are well-known for their therapeutic and skin-rejuvenating properties. The highest-quality oils are obtained through steam distillation, cold pressing, or solvent-free extraction methods. Oils extracted using solvents are referred to as absolutes or resins.

EOs are lipophilic, meaning they easily mix with fats, which helps them penetrate the skin.

It's important to distinguish pure EOs from synthetic fragrance oils. Unlike therapeutic EOs, synthetic fragrances contain numerous chemicals that can cause allergic reactions and even weaken the immune system. Many commercial creams and perfumes contain artificial fragrances, which lack the health-promoting properties of genuine EOs. If you’re making your own skincare products, it's best to avoid perfumes and synthetic fragrances altogether.

EOs promote skin health by regulating capillary function, encouraging cell turnover, and restoring tissue vitality. They also aid in eliminating waste and stimulating new skin cell production. However, because EOs are highly concentrated, they should never be applied undiluted. Instead, they should be blended with carrier oils, cleansers, toners, serums, lotions, or creams.

Each EO offers distinct benefits for different skin concerns. For instance, rosehip oil (technically a carrier oil) is rich in bioavailable vitamin C and gamma-linolenic acid, both of which enhance skin regeneration and elasticity. Its high gamma-linolenic acid content makes it particularly effective for reducing fine lines around the eyes and mouth.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%2215_-_ITALY_-_crema_viso_con_oli_essenziali_naturali_-_face_cream_with_essential_oil_ecobio_spignatto_fai_da_te.jpg, cosmesi fai da te naturale, CC BY-SA 3.0 IT <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/it/deed.en>, via Wikimedia Commons

My Favorite Essential Oils for Skincare

I currently incorporate the following EOs into my DIY skin creams and body butters:

Carrot Seed – Rich in antioxidants, promotes skin renewal, and protects against environmental damage.
Frankincense – Stimulates cell regeneration, reduces fine lines, and firms skin.
Geranium – Boosts collagen and elasticity, supports cell regeneration, and firms sagging skin.
Helichrysum – Powerful anti-inflammatory, promotes healing, and reduces scarring.
Lavender – Soothes skin, promotes collagen production, and offers antioxidant benefits.
Rosemary – Astringent properties may firm and tone skin.
Sandalwood – Hydrates, reduces age spots, and smooths fine lines.

I use these carrier oils directly on my skin:

Castor Oil – Rich in ricinoleic acid, an emollient that locks in moisture and may improve skin elasticity.
Rosehip Oil – High in vitamin C, promoting skin renewal and deep hydration.

My EO Blending Approach

I use a higher concentration of EOs in my DIY creams than may be typically recommended. While I’ll share my personal formula, EO usage is highly individual. It’s crucial to spot-test different EOs and their concentrations to check for potential allergic reactions. Additionally, EO vial droppers vary in drop size and dispensing speed, so measurements may differ. Although I’ve built a high tolerance to EOs over the decades, I remain mindful of their potency.

Photo taken March 2024 of author at 65 years showing use of EOs in skin care. No filters. Anecdotal example of skin condition using EOs as active skin care for over one year.

Photo taken March 2025 of author at 66 years. No filters. Anecdotal example of skin condition using EOs as active skin care for over two years.

A couple of years ago, I initially experimented with a "mixology" approach but eventually simplified my formula. Now, I use approximately 20 drops of each of the seven EOs listed above in a 4-ounce DIY cream, totaling 140 drops (about 35 drops per ounce). I’ve used this concentration for the past two years and have shared my blend with others—none of us have experienced any adverse reactions.

While I created this EO blend for its skin-enhancing properties, the scent itself is intoxicating. Others have also commented on how delightful it smells. Given what we know about the connection between scent and mental well-being, I suspect that this cream has an impact on the psyche as well. Regardless, I absolutely adore these EOs in my face and body creams!

If you need more information about DIY skin care, check out the local library, search the Internet, or check out my past Blog articles. It would be an honor for me if you purchased my skin care book. Thank you!

Take good care of yourselves!

XO Deborah

This article is intended to be used as general information only and is in no way intended to replace medical advice, be used as a medical treatment program, diagnosis, or cure of any disease or medical condition. There are no warranties, expressed or implied, regarding the effectiveness of the practices described in this article. Products or substances discussed herein are for educational purposes only and are not intended as recommendations of the author.